autumn arrives

day 52
train to tsumago



seasons are both distinct and celebrated here. both decoratively and more significantly, with food. here's an 'autumn selection' from a train station bakery. inside was (not pumpkin) chestnut.






view out our ryokan window.






our host prepared this autumn meal for us after we had settled in, taken a hot bath and dressed in our yukata robes. i noticed him peeking from his kitchen occasionally to note our reaction to each of the dishes. and with good resaon - it was by far the best meal we have eaten in japan.

i can not tell you what all of the items are, but i'll point out some of the highlights. first, middle right, basashi (horse meat sashimi). it wasn't very tender, but tasted great. on the green dish, centre right, are three grasshoppers preserved in a sweet dark sauce. a little crispy, a little chewy.

there's also local trout salted and grilled, tempura meats, chestnut paste, mountain yam, and the most delicate vegetable broth. plus a host of condiments that i can't identify. the home brewed plum juice was intense and delicious.

it must have taken hours to prepare, and we certainly took our time appreciating the work. all the dishes went back empty.